Yesterday (Thursday 17th June) saw a flurry of promising releases from both banks, including the likes of Clinet, Pichon Baron, Pontet-Canet, Calon Ségur, and more. Below we examine some of the highlights.
Alfred Tesseron getting a coffee at the Pontet Canet food truck during Bordeaux 2020 en primeur tasting week
Clinet 2020 opened the stage for yesterday’s release rush, entering the market at £66.50 per bottle. Falling c.30% below the current average market price of last year’s release, which has seen strong price performance since, the 2020 receives good critical praise that places it qualitatively in line with both the 2019 and 2015. Tasting in Bordeaux, Wine Lister CEO, Ella Lister calls it the best Clinet she’s tasted, observing a “Graceful, silky-smooth entry into the mouth […] A triumph”.
Super-second, Pichon Baron followed closely behind, releasing its 2020 at £110.60 per bottle. Having also shown good price-performance in recent vintages, the latest release comes onto the market 5% below the current average price of the 2019, and 15% below the 2018. Wine Lister partner critic, Antonio Galloni (Vinous) awards the 2020 96-98 points, noting “This is hands down one of the most impressive wines of 2020”. Ella is also complimentary, describing a palate that is “Structured, voluminous at first”, then shows a “wonderful feather-lightness”.
Fellow Pauillac peer, Pontet-Canet also released yesterday at £74.23 per bottle, providing another discount on market prices for its 2019 and 2018 vintages (26% and 19%, respectively). Antonio Galloni gives the 2020 95-97 points (level with the 2019), calling it a “captivating effort from the Tesseron family” that is “luxuriously rich from start to finish.” Ella agrees with this optimistic assessment, describing “Characteristically unique aromas of black forest gâteau” on the nose, and a “sweet, and savoury” palate.
Rounding out the releases, Calon Ségur 2020 entered the market at £78.20 yesterday – 6% down on the remaining market availability of the 2019 (which has seen its price increase by around 28% since last year), and 27% down on the 2018. James Lawther for JancisRobinson.com awards the 2020 18 points, calling it “clean and saline on the finish”, while Ella describes “Iris, violet at the fore” on the nose, and a “moreish and elegant” palate.
Also released are: Pape Clément, Pape Clément Blanc, Pichon-Longueville Baron Les Griffons, Le Marquis de Calon Ségur, and Capbern.
Wine Lister’s partner critic platform, JancisRobinson.com has now released the majority of its scores for the 2020 vintage, helping to paint a better picture of some of the top en primeur picks.
Explore all Bordeaux 2020 scores here, or read more below.
With a shared score of 19 from James Lawther for JancisRobinson.com, First Growths Margaux and Lafite lead the pack alongside Pomerol’s beloved Lafleur. Lawther describes Margaux 2020 as “aromatically complex with floral, mineral and dark-fruit notes”, and notes that Lafite 2020 is “rich, but with a massive charge of fine-grained tannin and lingering freshness” on the palate.
Fellow First Growths Haut-Brion and Mouton follow shortly after with a score of 18.5, shared with Lafleur’s neighbouring property, Petrus, and Saint-Estèphe staple, Cos d’Estournel.
Pomerol represents eight out of the 39 wines earning 17.5 and over from the JancisRobinson.com critics, recalling sentiments that earlier-ripening Merlots fared best in the latest vintage. Joining Lafleur and Petrus, Vieux Château Certan, Le Pin, Trotanoy, l’Eglise Clinet, Certan de May, and La Fleur-Pétrus earn a score of 17.5 for their 2020s.
Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is the only dry white Bordeaux to gain a score of 17.5 and above from JancisRobinson.com critics so far. Robinson tasted the wine herself, and observes that it is “already gorgeous” with “some richness on palate entry” that “gives way to really fantastic vibrancy on the palate”.
Also featured in the list of Bordeaux 2020s earning 17.5 and over from Wine Lister partner critic platform, JancisRobinson.com are: Calon Ségur, Pichon Baron, Palmer, Léoville Barton, Pavie, Angélus, Pichon Comtesse, Léoville Las Cases, Montrose, Ausone, La Mission Haut-Brion Rouge, Trotanoy, Duhart-Milon, Figeac, Durfort-Vivens, Clerc-Milon, Carruades de Lafite, Le Petit Mouton, Rauzan-Ségla, Canon, Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Léoville Poyferré, Meyney, Belair-Monange, Gruaud-Larose, and d’Issan.
Explore the top Bordeaux 2020 scores from Bettane+Desseauve, Neal Martin and Antonio Galloni (Vinous), and Jeannie Cho Lee.
In Wine Lister’s latest Bordeaux Study, we examine a five-vintage retrospective analysis showing the greatest positive percentage change between wines at ex-négociant release price and current market prices.
Top 20 by relative price change between average ex-négociant releases and current market
Which of the Bordeaux 2020 offerings show greatest price potential post-release?
One of the most significant periods of purchasing in a wine collector’s calendar is once again upon us. Bordeaux en primeur provides the opportunity to secure wines before they are bottled, with the primary benefits being both to gain access to crus that sell out quickly, and to pick them up at attractive prices, which will likely be higher once the wine becomes physically available.
Taking a closer look at the top-20 wines in the list, these bottles often see significant demand post- release, and are worth keeping an eye out for during the impending en primeur campaign.
Small-volume sensations
Lafleur, Les Carmes Haut-Brion, and Petrus typically see the greatest percentage changes in price, with all three producing notably small volumes within the context of Bordeaux – c.1,000, 1,800, and 2,500 cases per annum, respectively. With rarity on its side, demand for Lafleur has encouraged its original release price to grow by 115% on average in the secondary market.
Family of four
Four of the wines featured are produced under the same roof, or by the same team, as the Bordeaux First Growths, with demand surely heightened through association. Carruades de Lafite, Pavillon Blanc, Petit Mouton, and Clerc-Milon all offer potential price increase post-release, at a lower initial price than their Premier Cru siblings. Appearing fourth on the list, Carruades de Lafite has seen market price increase by c.56% post-release across the past five vintages, while the current cost of Petit Mouton is up c.54% on its ex-négociant price.
Rising through the ranks
Offering relative value and potential for future returns, several “rising stars” are featured in the ranking, and are worth watching over the upcoming releases. Canon, Calon Ségur, and trade darling for good value, Meyney have exhibited strong increases in quality over recent years, which has resulted in higher demand, and thus strong price performance after en primeur campaigns. The three promising picks have seen their average price increase by c.33%, c.24%, and c.19% respectively.
The full report can be purchased on our Analysis page, while Pro subscribers can access their free copy here. Wine Lister provides Pro+ subscribers with real-time en primeur release alerts during the campaign. Email us to enquire about signing up, or track releases prices on our dedicated en primeur page here.