From left to right: Stéphanie De Boüard-Rivoal, Bernardino Sani, Ernst Loosen, Anselme Selosse, Jane Eyre-Renard, and Matthew Day
Drinking with the experts
For the second time, we reveal the wines that have attracted the attention of some of the world’s leading winemakers. In this article, Wine Lister asks 11 vignerons to name their favourite bottle – providing the ultimate wish list of top-quality cuvées to look out for.
Stéphanie De Boüard-Rivoal – Château Angélus
Eighth-generation winemaker, Stéphanie De Boüard-Rivoal tells us that she has tasted many unforgettable bottles, including Clos Rougeard Le Bourg 2002, Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2008, Rayas 2005, Pétrus 1971, Krug Clos du Mesnil 1988, and Dunn Howell Mountain 1998. Above all, a bottle of Jacques Selosse Millésime 2002 comes out on top, having been opened by Stéphanie and her husband during a holiday to Mauritius a few years ago, where they enjoyed it on the beach with fresh crayfish. “The incredible depth, length, subtle salinity, complexity, and balance make this wine a real stunner and a wine one cannot forget after tasting it”. Stéphanie tells us that it is a combination of the wine and the context in which it was tasted that takes it to the top spot.
Bernardino Sani – Argiano
Bernardino Sani, winemaker at Argiano, tells us that his choice of wine is dependent on the occasion. Having previously worked in France, Central America, and the United States, Bernardino’s selection of favourites is as varied as the countries in which he has lived. Romantic dinners with his wife call for sparkling wine, such as Bérêche & Fils Rilly-La-Montagne. Super Tuscan estate, Montevertine, makes its way onto Bernardino’s podium of top reds, for its “terroir-driven” Sangiovese, Le Pergole Torte. He also cites G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero – “a pure example of Nebbiolo” – as one of his favourite reds. While Italy’s Amalfi Coast and Etna are high on Bernardino’s list of favourite white wine regions, Domaine Leflaive’s Montrachet 2002 takes the prize for the best white he has ever tasted.
Ernst Loosen – Weingut Dr. Loosen
Ernst Loosen believes that cool-climate Rieslings and Pinot Noirs are “red and white twins”, with both offering “pure pleasure to drink” at a young age, and “become truly interesting with a decade or two of maturity”. He feels “naturally drawn to Pinot Noir, especially the more elegant, Old World style of Burgundy”, and admires the “earthy, ethereal, sous bois aroma” that both varieties develop with age. Ernst tells us that “it’s a lot of fun to drink a well-matured Riesling Auslese alongside a [Burgundy] Pinot Noir of similar age”, highlighting the 1971 vintage as one that provides an excellent comparison between the two. He also notes that a 1959 Burgundian Pinot Noir and a 1959 German Riesling will never fail to provide you with “an unforgettable experience”.
Anselme Selosse – Domaine Jacques Selosse
When forced to choose, Anselme Selosse tells us that his favourite wine would be one produced by Rioja Alta’s López de Heredia. During a visit to the estate in 1972, two years before he joined his father at Domaine Jacques Selosse, he was “captivated by the family’s winemaking philosophy”, elements of which still influence his own style today. He singles out Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva as an exceptional wine that is “deeply imbued with the character of its birthplace”. For Anselme, it brings to mind “someone with the wrinkles of experience etched on his face, who dares to express himself without seeking approval”. Anselme pinpoints two vintages with these qualities, the 1996 and the 2001, describing them as “coloured with age [but] young at heart, […] harmonious, balanced, complex, and subtle” – “storytellers” which tell the unique tale of their terroir.
Jane Eyre-Renard – Maison Jane Eyre / Jane Eyre Mornington Peninsula
Fortunate to have tasted many outstanding wines since her first harvest in Burgundy in 1998, Australian-born winemaker, Jane Eyre-Renard, discloses (“in no particular order”) her three favourite categories: Pinot Noir, Grower Champagne, and Vin Jaune. When pressed for names, Jane tells us that, “if she really had to choose”, it would be between Pierre Overnoy’s Vin Jaune 1985 and Jacques Frédéric Mugnier’s Musigny Grand Cru 2010. Shared with a group of dear friends, the Vin Jaune, with its “complexity, power, length, and pure deliciousness”, was, for Jane, the perfect illustration of why “no great bottle was ever drunk alone”. Meanwhile, the Musigny encompasses “all the things [Jane] loves about Pinot Noir.” Having worked with Frédéric Mugnier back in 2002, she shared this bottle with her harvest team in 2022 when it was 12 years old.
From left to right: Omri Ram, Guillaume Pouthier, Telmo Rodríguez, Thibault Liger-Belair, and Sebastián Zuccardi
Matthew Day – Klein Constantia
With a host of experiences across the globe, from Saint-Émilion to Napa Valley, Matthew Day followed his roots back to South Africa, where he heads winemaking at Klein Constantia. He tells us that his favourite wines sit in two categories: those that hold sentimental value and have played a vital part in his career, and those that he just can’t get enough of. He ranks Penfolds Grange, Margaux, and Didier Dagueneau in the first category: his first job in Australia was at Penfolds and Margaux was the first First Growth he tasted. “When it comes to Dagueneau, I am crazy about Sauvignon Blanc, especially those from Pouilly-Fumé or Sancerre”, explaining that the wines “opened [his] mind to a terroir-focused winemaking style”. His wine picks for pure pleasure include d’Yquem, while Gramercy Cellar’s Syrah is his absolute favourite wine to drink. He is a firm believer that wines like these are better enjoyed with friends, without food, rather than trying too hard to force a pairing.
Omri Ram – Château Lafleur
Like many other oenophiles, Omri Ram struggled to narrow his favourite wines down to one. He cites the wines of Domaine G. Roumier, Domaine Coche-Dury, and Domaine Jamet as having marked “unique and special occasions”, while noting that some of the greatest wines “are those you can drink on a Tuesday evening, without breaking your head wondering if you should open your last bottle of something very rare”. In this case, he turns to the Rhône and Bordeaux. He enjoys the wines of Domaine Alain Graillot in Crozes-Hermitage – no frilly edges, “just a pure, well-made Syrah”. His adopted region, the Right Bank, holds a special place in his heart, offering great ageing potential without needing to break the bank. While Omri enjoys gems from Château Magdelaine (vintages 1990, 1995, and 1999 to be specific), he tells us that the real unsung heroes come from Fronsac, Côtes de Bourg, and the Médoc Crus Bourgeois. A current favourite of his is Château Tour du Haut-Moulin 1996, a Cru Bourgeois Haut-Médoc “of depth and sophistication”.
Guillaume Pouthier – Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion
Awarded the title of France’s best winemaker by Le Figaro Vin at the end of last year (recap the article here), Toulouse-born winemaker, Guillaume Pouthier, has many favourite wines. If he had to choose the one that he felt the “strongest emotional connection” with, it would be Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin 1991 from the icon Northern Rhône estate, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave. He tells us that it is a perfect example of a great wine with “perfect balance, good texture, and structure”: a classic Hermitage, one to be drunk now or kept for many more years.
Telmo Rodríguez – Remelluri
Telmo Rodríguez, of Remelluri fame, tells us that his favourite wine is Bodegas De La Riva’s unfortified Palomino, ‘M. Ant. De La Riva’, produced by winemakers Willy Perez and Ramiro Ibáñez from grapes grown in Jerez’s iconic Macharnudo vineyard. Seeing its Place de Bordeaux debut last September, this wine could be, according to Telmo “one of the world’s best whites, thanks to the Palomino grape’s noble expression and the finesse and flavour provided by the Albariza soils found in Jerez”. Dedicated to the revival of Spain’s native grape varieties, Telmo is keen to promote the new generation of great winemakers keeping these historic wines alive.
Thibault Liger-Belair – Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
Unlike our other interviewees, Thibault was quick to disclose his favourite wine: Domaine Hauvette Cuvée Cornaline 2011 Baux de Provence. “I love the precision and the style Dominique Hauvette can integrate into her wine”, he tells us. With “bright fruit and a wonderful aromatic expression”, this wine displays “exemplary precision and finesse, even when young”, according to the vigneron. Thibault recently brought a bottle to taste blind with his winemaker friends at their regular haunt in Beaune, and tells us that it left them stumped!
Sebastián Zuccardi – Zuccardi
“I have so many wines that inspire me and open my mind”, explains Sebastián, third-generation owner and winemaker of Argentinian estate, Zuccardi. Faced with the task of picking just one favourite, he chooses Soldera: “The wines display finesse and transparency, allowing the intensity of the distinctive terroir of the Montalcino forests to shine through”. Sebastián shared with us tales of his visit to the estate, where he was hosted by the legendary late Casse Basse winemaker, Gianfranco Soldera, remembering clearly Gianfranco’s desire for the aromas of the forest to be reflected in his wines.
Viable release price distribution (as featured in Bordeaux Study Part I: Scalpel, please)
Wine Lister has published Part I of its annual Bordeaux study, titled ‘Scalpel, please’. The report is informed by Wine Lister’s 80 million rows of data and reveals the results of our latest survey of 58 CEOs, MDs, and wine department heads from companies represent well over one-third of global fine wine revenues. Our latest blog explores some of the key findings from Part I, including trade recommendations for how the impending 2023 vintage should be priced in order to restore Bordeaux and the en primeur system to full health. We asked our survey respondents the following question:
On average, in order for the 2023 en primeur campaign to attract decent demand, what do you believe to be the maximum viable release price vs 2022?
When asked about the pricing of the upcoming en primeur campaign, the respondents called unilaterally for a price reduction on the 2022 vintage, while suggesting an average release price discount of -30%.
Americas and Asia (both smaller subsets of the survey) agree on lower median discounts, proposing -20% and -25%, respectively, while European trade members suggest an average -30%. La Place de Bordeaux and specialist merchants / retailers both suggest a median discount of -30%, top tier merchants / importers recommend a -23% discount, and auction houses call for an average -10% on the 2022.
Median by geography (as featured in Bordeaux – Part I, Scalpel, please)
Median by trade sector (as featured in Bordeaux – Part I, Scalpel, please)
Purchase the full study here (in French and English) to read more exclusive insights from the fine wine trade’s leading industry figures.
Study digest: key findings from from Bordeaux – Part I, “Scalpel, please”
With Bordeaux en primeur around the corner, Wine Lister has now published Part I of its 2024 Bordeaux Study: “Scalpel, please“
The report is informed by our annual survey of 58 international leading trade figures alongside our 80 million rows of data, providing crucial information for those who are selling or buying Bordeaux en primeur over the coming months. Purchase the full report here for £150 (in French or in English) for exclusive insight on Bordeaux’s top-performing wines and market expectations for the 2023 release price. Our Pro subscribers can access their free copy here.
Please see our key findings below, or download the study digest in English: Study Digest ENG or in French: Study Digest FR.
As 2023 draws to a close, Wine Lister has published the fourth of its annual Wine Leagues. The study explores this year’s top-performing wines and producers within a series of categories, informed by our annual trade survey of key industry players. It reveals exciting developments in the world of fine wine and shines a light on consumer trends and estates on the rise.
Read some key findings in our study digest below or download the full report for free here.
Extract: Illustrative analysis of en primeur release prices
Amongst other findings, Part II of Wine Lister’s annual Bordeaux Study, ‘Reaching for the stars’, examines how en primeur pricing over recent vintages compares with quality levels and secondary market prices, to consider what success in Bordeaux’s 2022 campaign might look like.
Extracted from the report, the chart below provides an illustrative analysis of the 2022 en primeur release prices, based on the 110 wines1 covered in the study. As the bulk of releases are yet to enter the market, this is an entirely theoretical projection which, if applied on a case-by-case basis, could nevertheless be a useful benchmark.
An extract from Part II of Wine Lister’s 2023 Bordeaux Study, providing an illustrative analysis of the 2022 en primeur release prices
Wine Lister’s Quality score aggregates recently-published scores from our five Bordeaux partner critics – Antonio Galloni and Neal Martin for Vinous.com, Bettane+Desseauve, JancisRobinson.com, and Ella Lister for Le Figaro – plus a small weighting for their average drinking window. By comparing the Quality score of the 2022 vintage (the highest ever recorded – 927) with the average of the most similar vintages (2015, 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020), we obtain a quality-price ratio (QPR) of 6.66.
By dividing the Quality score of the 2022 vintage by this same QPR, we obtain a theoretical future market price of €160 for the 2022 vintage. To this price, we apply a discount of between 10% and 25%, corresponding to the minimum saving that consumers would expect to make versus buying the physical product two years later. This gives us an average release price of between €120 and €144 per bottle. By subtracting the average importers’ margin, we arrive at an average ex-négociant release price of €103 to €123 per bottle, i.e. -5% to +26% compared to the ex-négociant release price of 2021.
Out of the 48 releases covered by Wine Lister at the time of publishing, the average release price of the 2022 vintage is €71.3, compared to €62.6 in 2021, representing an increase of 14%.
1Some wines have been excluded due to a lack of regular en primeur releases or unreasonable prices.
Head to Wine Lister’s analysis page here to purchase the full study in English and French, while Pro Subscribers can access their copy for free here.
While the Bordeaux 2022 en primeur campaign is yet to kick off in full swing – with just a handful of key releases entering the market over the past three weeks – Wine Lister’s partner critics’ scores are now in (Antonio Galloni and Neal Martin from Vinous, Jancis Robinson, Bettane+Desseauve, and Le Figaro Vin) informing our overarching 100-point Wine Lister score. The WL score is the average score of our five partner critics, normalised to take into account each critic’s scale and scoring habits.
In our latest blog, we examine the wines that gain the top Wine Lister scores in 2022 – a vintage that, despite extreme weather conditions, is projected to be one of the best from this century (recap Ella Lister’s vintage report here).
The top 30 wines of the vintage are shown below, with all estates in this ranking boasting scores of 96 or above. Scores are shown to one decimal place to enable a detailed ranking within the top scorers.
The 30 wines with the highest WL scores, including their points increase versus 2021
Reflecting trade and press sentiment regarding the exceptional quality of the 2022s, wines across the board have generally seen their WL scores increase on last year, and in some cases, significantly. This year, 64 wines achieve WL scores of 95 and over, more than double the number in 2021 (29). While the estates that made up our top 30 last year had an average score of 95.2, this year’s top 30 average 96.8 points.
A glaring observation: only red wines have scored above 96 in 2022 – the vintage having been kinder to Merlots and Cabernets than to their white counterparts, which struggled to maintain acidity in the heat. Only six whites – predominantly sweet wines from Sauternes and Barsac – scored just outside the examined range, with WL scores of around 95. These include – in descending order – Climens, Suduiraut, Doisy-Daëne L’Extravagant de Doisy (last year’s top-scoring wine, with 97 points in 2021), Rayne-Vigneau, La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc (the only dry white), and Fargues.
Turning to reds, Cheval Blanc stands at the top of the podium (up 3 points on 2021), followed by Léoville Las Cases (up 3.4 points), Latour (up 2.9 points), Vieux Château Certan (up 2 points), Mouton-Rothschild (up 3.2 points), and Lafite Rothschild (up 2 points), which all boast rounded scores of 98. They are closely tailed by La Conseillante (up 2.1 points), Petrus (up 2.7 points), and Figeac (up 2.6 points), amongst others.
The biggest climbers in the top 30 this year were Léoville Las Cases, with a WL score increase of 3.4 since the 2021, followed by Trotanoy with 3.3, Mouton-Rothschild with 3.2, La Mission Haut-Brion and Beau-Séjour Bécot with 3.1 points. On average, these 30 estates saw an increase of 2.4 points compared to 2021.
Right Bank estates take up the majority of places in this year’s top-30 list (56% compared to 45% in 2021). This is mainly thanks to 10 Saint-Émilion properties and their limestone terroirs featuring in the top 30 – exactly one third – versus 24% last year, whereas Pomerol’s representation is similar year-on-year (23% versus 21%). Other appellations featuring ore strongly in the top 30 are Pauillac (17% up from 14%), and Margaux and Saint-Estèphe (both 7% up from 3%), while Pessac-Léognan and Saint-Julien have seen their listings reduce (10% versus 17%; 5% versus 7%, respectively).
Tasting for Le Figaro, Ella Lister and her colleague, Béatrice Delamotte, spent a fortnight in Bordeaux tasting 600 wines en primeur from the extraordinary 2022 vintage – extraordinary in terms of its textures, its accessibility, and its unexpected freshness in such a dry, hot year – that has produced wines with technically high levels of tannin which somehow just melt into the background. We tasted many of the wines together, and sometimes two or three times in order to be able to judge each sample as faithfully as possible.
Château Lafleur
The Vintage
After a difficult 2021 vintage, 2022 is without doubt a contender for the vintage of the century – so far –, showing signs at this early stage of outdoing the magnificent triptych 2018, 2019, and 2020, and will perhaps go down in history as the 1982 has done. After almost 20 years as Technical Director at Château Cos d’Estournel, Dominique Arangoïts expressed this in slightly different words, suggesting that 2022 “might be the wine of my life”.
And the most extraordinary thing is that nobody expected it. The vines were subjected to some of the driest conditions on record, as well as above-average temperatures. However, there were no extreme heatwaves (as in 2003), and night-time temperatures remained relatively cool, dropping on average to around 15°c. The vines grew accustomed to the hot, dry conditions early in the growing season, which meant they adapted their consumption and their canopy growth in order to cope with what little water they had, making do with reserves amassed during a rainy 2021, then a top-up in June, and then surviving 50 dry days until mid-August. Refuting any comparison with 2003, Nicolas Audebert, Managing Director of Châteaux Canon and Rauzan-Ségla, uses the analogy of an office worker being cooped up until August, and getting sunburnt going out into the bright sun for the first time, whereas 2022 was a more gradual acclimatisation for the vines.
Nicolas Audebert, Managing Director of Châteaux Canon, Rauzan-Ségla and Berliquet
One of the buzzwords of the vintage, cited over and over again in our conversations with owners, winemakers, and consultants in the region was ‘resilience’. “ The vines, the soils, and the people were resilient,” said Omri Ram, Cellar Master and Head of Research and Development at Château Lafleur. That the vines survived the prolonged drought with relative ease and produced such stunning results was a shock to everyone, with many vignerons telling us they were more stressed than vines. Mathieu Cuvelier, owner of Clos Fourtet, found the experience quite stressful, even though “there was little that needed doing – no green harvesting, no de-leafing, very light vinification”. Pierre-Olivier Clouet, Technical Director at Château Cheval Blanc concurs, recounting “the vineyard made the wine all by itself”.
By early August the pips were already brown, i.e. phenolically ripe, “We had never witnessed that before” explains Frédéric Faye, the Managing Director of Château Figeac. However, the extreme weather conditions did leave room for mistakes for those were not attentive enough to picking dates or not gentle enough with their extraction. So 2022 wasn’t a vintage of homogenous quality, but overall, it was a pleasure to taste, and much easier for professional tasters than 2021, where we battled with oak, firm tannins, and biting acidity to assess potential quality. This year, the majority of wines are already so expressive and caressing as to be almost ready to drink, while possessing all the necessary attributes to age well.
“The wonderful thing this year is that every grape variety did rather well,” exclaimed Christian Seely, Managing Director of AXA Millésimes, parent company of Château Pichon Baron, explaining that while above all it’s a great Cabernet year, “the Merlots are as beautiful as they’ve ever been”. Many wines in 2022 featured a higher proportion of Merlot than usual, as the Cabernet berries were small and yielded less juice. In fact, 2022 sparked lots of positivity around Merlot, with Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, co-owner of Château Angélus, commenting that the vintage shows “Merlot can exist long into the future”, contrary to recent concerns about its capacity to stand up to a warmer, drier climate.
Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, co-owner and CEO of Château Angélus
The Wine
The red wines – the unquestionable winners in 2022 – are dense and concentrated, yet fresh, fruity, floral, and sappy. Above all, the best wines display a range of magical textures from silk and cashmere to duckling feathers, and a common and delightful thread through many of the wines is a vegetal florality reminiscent of the sap of fresh cut flowers. The least successful wines present harsh tannins. The best ones, on the other hand, are so fresh and tender that you would never know they came from such a dry, hot vintage, nor guess the resulting high IPTs and low pHs.
The dry whites, however, found it harder to contend with the vintage, and the low acidity levels can be more apparent than in the red. There are, nonetheless, a handful of successful whites worth looking out for, which possess the best and subtlest exotic notes, a finesse and softness that counteract the richness of the vintage. The sweet wines are very good, if not incredible, rich with delicious botrytis flavours and very high residual sugar levels.
The 2022 vintage is not one with an obviously overperforming appellation or subregion. Left and Right Bank made astonishing wines, and we have been inspired by our tastings to bestow an unprecedented number of potential 100-point scores to the wines. You can discover all eight possibly “perfect” wines, and hundreds more, on the Wine Lister and Figaro Vin websites now.
Key findings from this year’s first regional report
In anticipation of this year’s en primeur releases, Wine Lister has published Part 1 of its annual in-depth Bordeaux Study. In collaboration with Wine-Searcher, our market overview examines the region’s price performance and comparative popularity progression, and examines the wines that have seen the greatest increase in Wine Lister Quality, Brand, and Economic scores over the last year. Drawing upon valuable insight from 48 leading trade survey respondents, the study also identifies which properties have benefited from a rise in trade confidence over the past year, and explores the key benefits of the en primeur system.
Please see our key findings below, or download the study digest in English: Bordeaux Study Digest Part 1 – 2023 ENG or in French: Bordeaux Study Digest – 2023 FR.
Owner and winemaker of Château Haut-Bages Libéral in Pauillac and Château Ferrière in Margaux: “If it was a person my wine would be an opera-singer, like Pavarotti”.
The fifth in Le Figaro Vin’s series brings us back to Bordeaux to meet Claire Villars-Lurton, #46 best winemaker in France, who has embraced biodynamic viticulture to create her exquisite wines at her two estates. In her interview she shares her passion for a vocation to which she has devoted the last 30 years.
Le Figaro Vin: How does it feel to be crowned a winemaking champion?
Claire Villars-Lurton: I am not sure that I am a winemaking champion, but I do feel that I am now on the right path and that I have fully found my feet. When I started there was so much to learn and I really struggled. After a time I wanted to take the lead. Today I feel that everything I have set in train makes sense and that I have a clear grasp of the way ahead.
Have you been training for long?
Yes, for almost 30 years. I have tried a variety of approaches and it hasn’t always been easy. I question almost everything and am never satisfied, which prompts me to challenge myself and also to push my colleagues out of their comfort zone. I cannot bear being comfortable and I don’t like treading water. It is now over 20 years since I took over at Château Haut-Bages Libéral and Château Ferrière. For the last 15 years I have immersed myself in a comprehensive training in biodynamic agriculture. I think it’s wonderful that there is now so much awareness and appreciation of its methodology, so much expertise, research, and literature, all of which paves the way towards an alternative viticulture.
Who is your mentor?
I have a number of mentors. The most important guide on my biodynamic adventure has been Alain Moueix who, crucially, has convinced my colleagues that this is the way forward. Jacques Lurton has shared his expertise on all things wine. Alain Canet (agroforestry adviser to Château Cheval Blanc, ed.) has helped me with the planting of trees in the vineyards. Four or five years ago I, my husband Gonzague (Lurton, owner of Château Durfort-Vivens, ed.), and the agronomist Konrad Schreiber, set up a knowledge-sharing platform for winemakers to pool their experience and expertise, “La Belle Vigne”. I have found this really helpful.
Is wine a team sport?
More than ever, especially when you don’t take shortcuts and don’t introduce cultured yeasts. We have to work with what we have, so we need to operate as a team, from vineyard to cellar. Wine is a team sport played in front of a huge number of spectators who are focused on the product.
What is the key to making a good wine? The terroir or the winemaker?
Always the terroir! But you need both. You can make a poor wine from a great terroir, while a good winemaker can never work miracles with poor terroir.
To what do you owe your success?
I am not sure that I have been successful. I would say that I owe a great deal to my education and my family. I had dynamic parents who refused to rest on their laurels. Mum was a role model, even though she was very young when she left us, and I never got to see her at work. I felt secure in the knowledge that my grandfather, my uncle, and my husband all had my back. Becoming sole owner at 30 developed my sense of responsibility. I knew that my family was always there for me, so now I am delighted by the thought that my children want to take up the reins.
Are your children proud of you?
You would have to ask them, as they certainly won’t tell me, but I think so.
Who is your biggest supporter?
My husband.
Your favourite colour?
Orange, because it’s a warm, bright colour that’s full of energy. As far as wine is concerned then, of course, it’s red.
The king of grape varieties?
Entirely predictably, Cabernet Sauvignon.
Your favourite wine?
Château Haut-Bages Libéral 2018.
Your favourite vintage?
I really like 2020, which is a bit like 2010.
If your wine was a person, who would it be?
It would be an opera-singer, like Pavarotti. Brilliant and luminous, with a perfect timbre, at once powerful and restrained.
What are the best circumstances in which to taste your wine?
I try to make a wine that can be enjoyed whatever the circumstances. Ideally, it’s when you share it with good friends or with family, at your leisure and with a lot of love.
Have you ever thought about chemically enhancing yourself, or your wine?
Never! I am called Claire and a given name like that means that I cannot cheat. I think our first names determine who we are. I’m a completely open book, so much so that I reveal too much, reveal everything. So absolutely no chemical enhancement for me, not even make-up.
For what price would you be prepared to sell your estate?
Money doesn’t interest me. I will never sell. It’s not money that makes me happy; it’s the tool of my trade, my land, that brings me joy.
Who is your strongest competition in Bordeaux?
My husband. He’s not really a competitor – if he were listening, I don’t think he’d take it very well! – but, all the same, there’s a slight competitive edge between Gonzague and me, which makes us motivate each other and which always keeps us on our toes. We both want to do our best and he is always pushing me to the next level. I try to match him, or even outperform him [laughs]. We really complement each other, and we admire each other a lot; for me to love someone is to admire them.
What is the competition that you fear the most?
People who cheat or use others to get ahead. I try to succeed on my own merits.
What are you most proud of?
My children.
What has been your most innovative strategy in the vineyard and in the cellar?
Bringing trees into the vineyard, embracing agroforestry, all the work we put in today to support the soil as a living organism. Our approach is to work organically, from the soil and roots up, to produce robust, healthy grapes more resistant to diseases and parasites.
In the cellar we have developed an innovative approach to protecting our wine against oxidisation, one which allows us to use the least sulphur possible, thereby reducing additives to a minimum. The active ingredient in sulphur is only part of the whole element. Although sulphur is indispensable, its use in the battle against oxidisation can be radically reduced, and that’s where our work is bearing fruit. Indeed, we are pioneers in the field.
Who would be your ideal successor on the podium?
My children, obviously. Inheritance is a central part of our Latin culture. I inherited my property and I want to leave something for the next generation.
The technical director revolutionising Pomerol’s Château L’Évangile: “If my wine was a person, it would be Catherine Deneuve”.
Wine Lister’s parent company, Le Figaro Vin, has launched its inaugural series of the 50 best winemakers in France in 2023. Interviews with each winemaker making the top 50 will be published throughout the course of the year – in French on the Le Figaro Vin website, and in English on Wine Lister’s blog. The first in the series, #50, is Olivier Trégoat – Technical Director of Pomerol’s Château L’Évangile. Here he shares the highlights of his viticultural journey so far. In just a few years, Olivier Trégoat has managed to realise the full potential of l’Évangile, getting the most out of the appellation’s natural generosity, while reinstating a remarkable freshness in the wine.
Le Figaro: How does it feel to be crowned a winemaking champion?
Olivier Trégoat: I am very happy, but give most of the credit to the team, as it is, above all, a real collective effort. Alone, I would be good for nothing.
Have you been training for long?
Yes, I’ve been training since 1997. Everything I’ve done in my previous winemaking roles contributes to what I have achieved at L’Évangile. I got my start in Saint-Émilion, which catalysed my interest in soil studies – while my previous job as an independent consultant for large Bordeaux estates (including Château Cheval Blanc) was invaluable.
Who is your mentor?
At the start of my winemaking journey, it was Kiss Van Leeuwen, a viticulture professor at Bordeaux Sciences Agro and the Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences (ISVV). Today, my mentors are my neighbours in Pomerol – whose proximity prevents me from making mistakes and provides me with constant inspiration.
What is the key to making a good wine? The terroir or the winemaker?
The terroir. For me, climate and soil make up 80% of the wine.
To what do you owe your success?
To my education, my curiosity, and the tools at my disposal – a triptych of soil, vine, and wine.
Is your family proud of you?
Yes, I’m sure they are.
Who are your best supporters?
Paradoxically, some of my competitors, but also my former clients from when I was an independent consultant.
Red or white wine?
The older I get, the more white wine I drink!
The king of grape varieties?
Cabernet Franc. At Château L’Évangile, it’s a grape variety that we will continue to plant and conduct research into – particularly because of its freshness. And also because I love the wines of the Loire Valley!
Your favourite wine?
Château L’Évangile 2006. It is a harmonious vintage that offers the delicate touch of l’Évangile’s hallmark tannins, alongside a more fleshy characteristic – but without excess, and still retaining a beautiful freshness.
Your favourite vintage?
2011 – something slightly different. It was not well understood around the time of its release, and it came after 2009 and 2010, which were widely-recognised as exceptional vintages. It’s just starting to open up today.
If your wine was a person, who would it be?
Catherine Deneuve. A great, timeless actress who knew how to challenge herself in different roles.
What are the best circumstances in which to taste your wine?
Drink it with people you love.
Have you ever thought about chemically-enhancing yourself, or your wine?
No, never. Nature is generous in Pomerol; I always say that I have my foot on the brake rather than the gas.
Who is your strongest competition in Pomerol?
Château Lafleur.
Which competitions do you dread the most?
Frosty periods in early April.
What was your greatest win?
I had beginners’ luck. My entire career in wine so far has been a bit like a race in which I have ended up on the podium against all odds!
What has been your most innovative strategy?
While we do things in a very simple manner in the winery, in the vineyard, we make very rigorous intra-parcel selections on different soils. I sometimes say that we harvest in a Sauternes style. We love to split hairs during this critically decisive period. It’s a real challenge to be a winemaker in Pomerol today.
Who would be your ideal successor on the podium?
On the podium, Château Lafleur. They are very sharp and precise in what they do, with consistently good ideas. And for my successor at the estate, I don’t know yet…
A few words about the estate:
The property was founded in the mid-18th century under the name “Fazilleau”. At the beginning of the 19th century, the Léglise family, who played a significant role in expanding the vineyard, sold it to a lawyer named Isambert, who renamed it L’Évangile. He expanded the estate to around 13ha – not far off its current size.
Since 1990, Château L’Évangile has been under the helm of Baron Éric de Rothschild, who also owns Château Lafite in Pauillac (among others in the appellation), as well as Château Rieussec in Sauternes. His daughter, Saskia, a former New York Times correspondent writing from the Ivory Coast, and the author of a novel, joined her father in Bordeaux in 2017. The estate has benefitted from significant investments, as well as the technical expertise of the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) teams for over 30 years. Juliette Couderc was appointed Chief Operating Officer in 2020, having previously managed the vineyards of Chinese estate, Long Dai, which also belongs to the group. She works alongside Olivier Trégoat.