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Words with: Paulo Pong of Altaya Wines

ROSIE BICKERDIKE
30 / 10 / 24
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Pictured above: Paulo Pong, founder of Altaya Group

Since founding Altaya Wines in 2001, Paulo Pong has grown the company into one of Hong Kong’s most respected wine merchants, representing some of the world’s most prestigious wines. A discreet but influential player in the global wine sphere, Paulo is also a genuine foodie and Executive Director of the Classified Group, a restaurant empire responsible for setting up some of the coolest spots in Hong Kong. In case he didn't have enough on, in 2022 he was appointed Chairman of Hong Kong's Ocean Park, a theme park and centre for animal conservation and education.

Paulo tells us about the much-cherished Burgundian estate that continues to wow his team and shares his top restaurant wine lists in Hong Kong.

Wine Lister: Tell us about your current "house wine".

Paulo Pong: The good thing about being a wine merchant is that we have access to almost any wine. My wife is mainly a red wine drinker so we tend to stick to that. I’m often very much affected by my last visit to a wine region. I was in Napa Valley a few months ago so I’ve been exploring some young Cabernets lately.

WL: What do you drink when you're not drinking wine?

PP: Chinese tea is my staple drink. I prefer cold oolong tea in the warmer months and pu’er tea in the fresher period. The good thing is that tea is great for digestion.

WL: What does "fine wine" mean to you?

PP: Probably something rare and higher in value which one doesn’t drink frequently. But in Hong Kong, we have clients who drink these bottles regularly!

WL: The best restaurant wine list in Hong Kong?

PP: L’Atelier de Robuchon is somewhere you can find an exceptional range of special bottles. Bar Cyclone, run by former Olympic cyclist Jack Wu, offers a concise yet interesting wine list.

WL: What emerging region are you most excited about?

PP: I have been to Helan Mountains in North West China's Ningxia province several times. I find their quality to have improved in recent years and I am very excited about the progress some wineries have made. They need to work on awareness and branding and we believe Hong Kong can play a role to help them get more exposure in the global wine sphere.

WL: What is your standing on natural wine?

PP: I’m not sure if I really understand some of them. I believe that minimal intervention still has boundaries and that the wines produced need to be clean and enjoyable.

WL: Your go-to wine shop in Hong Kong?

PP: Sorry, I’m biased here. We have a region-focused concept called Burgundy etc where wines from all major appellations are present and you can find well-established domaines as well as up and coming producers.

WL: If you could share a glass of wine with one person, dead or alive, who would it be and what would you drink?

PP: The late Michael Broadbent taught me how to appreciate old wine and I miss those gatherings in which we tasted vintage bottles and listened to his anecdotes on the wines, vintages, or producers. Mostly clarets of course.

WL: If you weren't working in wine, what would you be doing?

PP: I currently spend a fair amount of time at Ocean Park where I am chairman. It is a theme park and a centre for animal conservation and education. We just bred a pair of giant panda cubs and we encourage all overseas guests to visit and see a different side of Hong Kong.

WL: To finish, can you share with our readers one producer to watch?

PP: Since our portfolio consists of mostly Burgundian domaines, I thought it would be appropriate for me to point out a family estate which my team adores: Domaine Bruno Clair. We have been representing them for over 20 years. In the past decade, with Bruno passing the baton to the next generation, we see even greater potential unravelling in the vineyards and their wines. What’s more beautiful is that the brothers, Edouard and Arthur, are lovely and humble people which is refreshing amongst many young producers today.

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UNE SOCIÉTÉ DU GROUPE FIGARO
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