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Words with: Michael Unger of Unger Weine

ROSIE BICKERDIKE
12 / 08 / 24
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Pictured above: Michael Unger, co-founder and co-owner of Unger Weine

In the second instalment of Wine Lister's new 'Words with' series, we speak to Michael Unger, co-founder and co-owner of Unger Weine - one of Germany's leading premium wine merchants. Having been destined for careers in engineering and finance, Michael and his brother, Wulf, turned to the world of wine in 1993, setting up shop in Frasdorf, a small town nestled in the foothills of the Bavarian Alps. Having fashioned a now-thriving business and with over 30 years in the game, the brothers foster close relationships with their importers and customers - in keeping with their familial roots.

Find out more about Michael's wine critic idol and producers to watch out for in Napa Valley and the Loire.

Wine Lister: Tell us about your current "house wine".

Michael Unger: We are lucky to have access to almost anything we want, therefore there is no such thing as a house wine. In summer, we drink more whites and rosés, and fresh, young champagnes. It all depends on the moment, the mood, and who is at the table. In general, we drink more white than red.

WL: What do you drink when you're not drinking wine?

MU: 99% tap water, as the water quality in our Bavarian mountains is great. Beer here and there, but most of it during Oktoberfest in Munich. I do not drink hard liquor, spirits, or cocktails.

WL: What does "fine wine" mean to you?

MU: For me, "fine wine" means something that you do not get to drink every day. It is like wearing a fine jacket or a nice suit. Fine wine is also about enjoying the moment and the company. There is no difference in colour - it can be white, red, or sparkling, but it has to be something really good.

WL: The best restaurant wine list in Munich?

MU: There are a few great lists: Tantris, Landersdorfer und Innerhofer, Restaurant Waltz, Blaue Libelle, Jolanda, Grill Munich, and Little London.

WL: What emerging region are you most excited about?

MU: The Loire, as there is so much potential for great Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. I strongly believe that this area will start to be recognised more and more.

WL: What is your standing on natural wine?

MU: I have never had a really good one, though I have to say that I am quite conservative. Wine for me has to be fresh, with fruit and inspiring aromatics. I accept ripeness and secondary notes in older vintages, but not in young wines. Natural wines taste old while they are still young.

WL: Your favourite wine shop?

MU: There is one in Bordeaux which I really like called Badie. They have a store for champagne and a separate one for wine.

WL: If you could share a glass of wine with one person, dead or alive, who would it be and what would you drink?

MU: Maybe Robert Parker, as he influenced an entire industry for decades just writing about his own taste. Impressive and fascinating.

WL: If you weren't working in wine, what would you be doing?

MU: Working as an automotive engineer, as that is what I studied to be.

WL: To finish, can you share with our readers one producer to watch?

MU: There are two. One is Ketan Mody in Napa Valley, as I have hardly ever seen such a driven person before. Head-trained vines planted at high elevation (some of which are own-rooted), dry farming; early harvest. The other one is Belargus's Ivan Massonnat in the Loire.

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UNE SOCIÉTÉ DU GROUPE FIGARO
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+44 (0)20 7953 4092
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