From left to right: Andrea Roug Sala, Michael Peng, Jean-Trésor Vets, Laura Hernández Espinosa, Agnese Morandi

Drinking with the world’s top sommeliers: Part II

Wine Lister delves into the stories behind five more sommeliers’ standout wines in 2024. We also seek their recommendations for exceptional yet affordable bottles under £35 (retail) and their suggestions for optimum food pairings at home.

Andrea Roug Sala – Head Sommelier at Geranium, Copenhagen

Château Rayas left a lasting impression on Andrea from the moment his mentor introduced him to the wine nearly seven years ago. He describes its “perfect balance between intensity, elegance, and complexity”, which evokes “strong emotions and amazing memories.”

For Andrea’s sub-£35 bottle, he turns to his Italian homeland, Lombardy. Lino Maga’s Barbacarlo is made from a blend of local grapes (Croatina, Uva Rara, and Vespolina) grown on the hills of the Oltrepò Pavese in Broni (the Pavia province). At home, Andrea likes to pair this value-for-money red with risotto and ossobuco alla milanese.

Michael Peng – Co-Owner and Wine Buyer at Hunan, London

Michael likens singling out a favourite wine to singling out a favourite child. He goes on to reflect on his own wine journey, describing it as a “deeply personal and unique learning experience.” A stand-out part of this self-discovery was learning to appreciate Domaine Armand Rousseau – something that he didn’t in his youth. A wine that blew him away more recently thanks to its “purity and elegance” was Nicolas Jacob’s Poulsard, Les Chazaux 2022.

When choosing a bottle under £35, Michael favours a German Riesling from Donnhoff, preferably a Kabinett or Spätlese. Riesling’s versatility, combined with its relative affordability, makes it a “totally underrated varietal”, in his opinion: “Fresh and zippy, it’s the perfect match with the Asian cuisine we eat at home, whether it be Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Korean or Indian.” The wine also comes with an added reward: “the low alcohol content means I can drink more than one glass without falling asleep!”

Jean-Trésor Vets – Head Sommelier at The Jane, Antwerp

“For many sommeliers, this is a difficult question, but for me, the answer has always been clear”, Jean-Trésor says of Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte 2014, which he was once gifted by his mentor. It was the cuvée that caused him to fall in love with wine and inspired his career in the industry.

Jean-Trésor’s favourite wine for under £35 is ever-changing. Having recently spent three weeks in South Africa, he has grown fond of David and Nadia’s 2022 Grenache. Its notes of “red cherry, blood orange, pomegranate, and green herbs” make it enjoyable on its own or with an array of different foods. He describes it as “perfect for a lazy afternoon”, pairing “wonderfully with BBQ dishes like turbot, sea bream, and sea bass”. Jean-Trésor looks forward to enjoying the wine slightly chilled as summer arrives.

Laura Hernández Espinosa – Head Sommelier and Beverage Director at Restaurante Leo, Bogotá

Laura notes the difficulty in choosing a single standout wine, holding “a deep affection for a few select producers who exemplify the diversity and richness of their locales”. Her list includes Maestro Sierra in Jerez, Comando G, Remelluri, and Gramona in Spain, and Roberto Henríquez in Chile. She stresses how the wines of these producers “speak profoundly of their origins” and resonate with her personally “due to their distinct qualities and the stories behind them”.

Comando G’s La Bruja de Rozas, a Garnacha from the Sierra de Gredos, is Laura’s sub-£35 choice. The blend of Garnacha grapes, sourced from 30 to 80-year-old vines planted around 900 metres above sea level, results in a red that is “beautifully balanced, silky, and elegant.” Laura enjoys pairing it with dishes that are simple, yet flavourful, and sometimes drinks it by itself, “allowing the wine’s character to shine through.”

Agnese Morandi – Sommelier at Table by Bruno Verjus, Paris

Agnese’s standout wine is Champagne Jacques Selosse’s limited-production Les Carelles RP04 (Réserve Personnelle du Millésime 2004), produced from the very best Chardonnay grapes of the vintage. Calling it “liquid emotion”, she describes a slightly oxidative wine with a “light mushroom touch” that is “still super young and crispy”.

Domaine de la Borde’s Les Écrins 2018, a Jura Savignin, is Agnese’s top pick for a bottle under £35. She recommends drinking this white at home with friends as an accompaniment to a Sunday roast chicken.

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