For the eighth instalment of our 'Fresh pour' series, we meet Yancheng Liu, Club Deputy Head Sommelier at one of London’s leading private members clubs, Maison Estelle. With the titles of both UK Best Young Sommelier 2024 (first place) and Worlds Best Sommelier 2024 (third place) under his belt, the former law student-turned-chef was inspired to enter the wine industry not by a bottle but by a book – The Drops of God – whose vivid storytelling inspired his self-taught journey to becoming a sommelier. With a keen eye for overlooked appellations and a passion for making wine more inclusive, Yancheng is part of a new wave of sommeliers redefining what ‘fine wine’ means today.
Yancheng reflects on the stylistic shifts among young wine lovers, the rise of under-the-radar producers, and why fine wine is more accessible than many assume.
Wine Lister: What was the bottle that got you into wine?
Yancheng Liu: Not a bottle, but a book. During law school, I read 'The Drops of God' by chance and couldn’t believe that a wine could be described in such a way. I decided to buy some more books to learn more and, after a few months, I opened my first bottles and tried to write tasting notes.
WL: What is one misconception people have about the fine wine industry?
YL: I think ‘fine wine’ is not as ‘fine’ as people expect - it’s not just about Château Lafite and Opus One. This industry is much more approachable than that and not as far from everyday life as one might think.
WL: A producer that you admire and why?
YL: To pick one, Poggio di Sotto. It shows both the passion and finesse of Tuscany sunshine, and the wine is almost Burgundy-like in texture. The price is approachable - it’s a ‘fine wine’ everyone can try.
WL: The fine wine trends you are most and least excited about?
YL: I am most excited about new emerging producers. More and more hidden producers are being found by fine wine hunters and loved by customers. However, the sad part is that these bottles then increase in price as they get more popular.
WL: Your favourite wine list in London?
YL: I would have to say the wine list at work (Maison Estelle), ha! Sadly, I can’t share any details about it as we are a private members club, but it’s a really exciting wine list covering so many previously ignored appellations. HIDE in Mayfair also has a really extensive list including lots of rare labels and back vintages.
WL: What do you think young people can bring to the industry?
YL: Young people bring new tastes. So, we need more and more young people in the industry to understand them.
WL: Have you noticed any purchasing habits or stylistic preferences among the younger consumer group (ages 21-35)?
YL: It seems they are moving towards less complex and expressive styles: less oak, less development, easy and straight forward. Young people want a wine that you can drink early.
WL: How can fine wine producers appeal to the younger generation?
YL: By using more careful and varying styles of maceration: a lot of producers are moving towards steel and amphora and away from oak.
WL: The theme to your career so far?
YL: Study. I’m trying to do as many exams and competitions as I can - knowledge is the base for everything.
WL: If you weren't working in wine, what would you be doing?
YL: Before becoming a sommelier, I worked in a kitchen. Cooking was my first love before I found wine: it changed my life. If I never opened that book (The Drops of God), I would be a lawyer now.