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Words with: Tatiana Fokina of Hedonism Wines

ROSIE BICKERDIKE
08 / 10 / 24
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Pictured above: Tatiana Fokina, CEO of Hedonism Drinks

When Mayfair’s Hedonism Wines launched in 2012, former art dealer, Tatiana Fokina, was its first employee. She is today CEO of Hedonism Drinks, a group that includes the Michelin-starred HIDE and its sister restaurant Hideaway, as well as the now legendary boutique that started it all. Uncommonly creative, formidably organised, remarkably driven, and fiercely independent, Tatiana has rapidly become one of the most enigmatic and influential figures in the London wine industry.

Get her insights on the up-and-coming Uruguayan wine scene, and to find out which Asian wine region she is most curious about.

Wine Lister: Tell us about your current "house wine".

Tatiana Fokina: I am an avid champagne drinker and, even at home, it’s what is in my glass most of the time. My current favourite is Pascal Doquet, which I tried for the first time during the opening of Venice Biennale earlier this year and have been addicted to ever since.

WL: What do you drink when you're not drinking wine?

TF: Coffee is a must with my hectic schedule and constant lack of sleep. Since opening our coffee shop Hideaway, I have learned a lot about it; understanding what you are drinking adds another layer to the enjoyment.

WL: What does "fine wine" mean to you?

TF: Fine wine for me is a form of art, something complex and elegant, with a story behind it, and with a taste that stays with you long after the bottle is finished.

WL: The best restaurant wine list in London?

TF: I will have to say HIDE, as it truly has very little competition in that respect. It was always intended to be somewhere where wine would be enjoyed on a par with the food and the atmosphere, without the usual extortionate restaurant wine mark-up. As HIDE has access to everything in the Hedonism cellar, and bottles are delivered from there on request, the amount of options is truly unparalleled.

WL: What emerging region are you most excited about?

TF: Japan. Given the perfectionism and attention to detail the nation puts into absolutely everything they do, I am incredibly curious to see how the winemaking develops there. The few wines I have tried from the region were very elegant and promising.

WL: What is your standing on natural wine?

TF: It is not the main characteristic by which I choose a wine, although I have a lot of respect for producers who choose this route. As long as the taste is there along with the narrative, I am all for it.

WL: Your go-to wine shop in London?

TF: I will have to be biased here. Since creating Hedonism Wines 12 years ago, I have very rarely needed to go anywhere else. I used to enjoy going to The Sampler when I lived in Angel. You could always find some obscure older wines there and the service was always excellent.

WL: If you could share a glass of wine with one person, dead or alive, who would it be and what would you drink?

TF: Stephen Fry - hopefully there is still a chance I might. I could listen to him talk about absolutely everything and anything.

WL: If you weren't working in wine, what would you be doing?

TF: I run an interior design studio as my own project alongside Hedonism and Hide. That is my other passion that I discovered whilst working in the wine industry. As we see with so many wineries, wine and architecture go hand in hand; I am lucky to be able to enjoy working with both.

WL: To finish, can you share with our readers one producer to watch?

TF: Bodega Garzón are doing incredible things for Uruguay as a wine region. I really like their approach and the wines are great too.

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A GROUPE FIGARO COMPANY
Get in touch
team@wine-lister.com
+44 (0)20 7953 4092
Address
Wine Lister Limited,
231 Vauxhall Bridge Road,
London,
SW1V 1AD
Connect
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Twitter
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