Pictured above: Mathieu Chadronnier, CEO of CVBG
As well as being one of the most important figures in the international fine wine industry, Mathieu Chadronnier is also one of the nicest. Following in the footsteps of his father, Jean-Marie, who preceded Mathieu as CEO, he has been at CVBG for almost 23 years. While heading one of Bordeaux's leading négociants, Mathieu also produces wine alongside his wife, Anne-Laurence. Together, they run Château Marsau - once described by Robert Parker as "the Petrus of the Côtes de Francs".
Read on to discover Mathieu's favourite Bordeaux wine list and the "unmistakably great" natural wine that should be on your radar.Wine Lister: Tell us about your current "house wine".
Mathieu Chadronnier: We don't have such a thing as a "house wine" as there's so much out there to discover. When we're at home, we drink from our eclectic cellar. If not at home, we go local as much as possible. More recently, it's been a mix of Mondeuse (we were on holiday in the Alps), an exploration of Domaine Tempier, and revisiting vintages of our own Château Marsau.
WL: What do you drink when you're not drinking wine?
MC: Gin and tonic.
WL: What does "fine wine" mean to you?
MC: A wine is "fine" if it pleases the senses and satisfies the intellect. It should fulfil both an aesthetic and a hedonistic purpose.
WL: The best restaurant wine list in Bordeaux?
MC: Ressources, Le Prince Noir, Le 1925.
WL: Which emerging region are you most excited about?
MC: Bordeaux! The region as a whole is going through some of its most difficult times, and that makes it an emerging region, because the Bordeaux that will overcome this crisis will be different from that of yesteryear. New growers and segments will emerge, while the greats will continue to be the beacon for ultimate quality, all the while doubling down on sustainability.
WL: What is your standing on natural wine?
MC: I must confess that it was not very nuanced until I came across my first great bottle from Ganevat. Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes. Very unconventional, but unmistakably great. Is it great because it is "natural"? I'll leave that as an open question…
WL: Your go-to wine shop in Bordeaux?
MC: There are two: Autres Châteaux and Chai Mica.
WL: If you could share a glass of wine with one person, dead or alive, who would it be and what would you drink?
MC: Probably Glenn Gould. I don't know if he was a wine lover, but I often draw a parallel between wine and music. Trying to find a wine to suit each of the Goldberg Variations with him would be absolutely fascinating!
WL: If you weren't working in wine, what would you be doing?
MC: Maybe outdoor photography, although it's hard to imagine not working in wine, as wine has been my whole professional life so far.
WL: To finish, can you share with our readers one producer to watch?
MC: As much as I see Bordeaux as an emerging region, I am always fascinated by the established estates that succeed in becoming something else by upping their game just when you think they've done it all. Along those lines, I would encourage everyone to keep a watchful eye on La Conseillante (although there are, of course, many others!).