France’s 50 best winemakers: Domaine Belargus’ Ivan Massonnat

Owner of Domaine Belargus: “I have a bit of a PSG syndrome”.

Figaro Vin’s 39th top French winemaker, Ivan Massonnat creates sumptuous wines on Savennières’ exceptional terroir.

In the Loire valley, on one of Anjou noir’s finest terroirs, Ivan Massonnat is fulfilling his long-lasting dream of producing excellent Chenins from Savennières. At the Belargus estate, born in 2018 with the purchase of the Pithon-Paillé estate, 24 hectares of vines are biodynamically grown in a parcel-based approach inspired by the Burgundian “climates”. Named in tribute to the rare cuvée once made by Jo Pithon – the “Belargus des Treilles” – Belargus is also the name of a small blue butterfly that’s exceedingly rare at this latitude but can be found on the Coteau des Treilles terroir.

Le Figaro Vin. – How does it feel to be crowned a winemaking champion?

Ivan Massonnat. – I don’t consider myself to be a champion. One part of me feels like a wine amateur that’s made it and is living the dream, the other like a producer that makes his wine and takes decisions.

Have you been training for long?

Yes, since my childhood, without even realising it. My passion for vines stems from my grandfather’s vines, and I’ve trained by being in contact with real champions, of the Burgundian kind.

Who is your coach?

Jo Pithon, who’s been by my side every day throughout this adventure, with 40 vintages under his belt. I have a few other mentors, such as Thibault Liger-Belair and Philippe Pacalet in Burgundy. It’s by their side that I learnt to trust myself. There’s Pierre Amoreau from Château Le Puy, who taught me a lot. Among those who inspire me, there’s also Anselme Selosse. His approach goes far beyond that of a winemaker, he’s a true philosopher. At 45 years old, I completely changed my life, shifting towards a career I knew to be difficult. When I see a man like him, I know I’ve done the right thing.

Is wine a team sport?

Yes, definitely. I spend my time saying so. There are some people who are often cast aside, especially in the vineyard, but on my estate, it’s the opposite. You need great talent, with each individual excelling in their specialty. The members of my team are sharp and well-suited to their roles. I have the PSG syndrome; I don’t want people working in silos. If everyone isn’t aware of the whole, we cannot accomplish anything. Good ideas sometimes come from across the playing field. For me, the concept of a rugby team is the best model there is.

What is the key to making a good wine? The terroir or the winemaker?

I have a vision of making wine with a sense of place, and not all places are created equal. That being said, a good-for-nothing from the finest place will not make a great wine! I don’t believe that a winemaker is a magician.

To what or to who do you owe your success?

To all those who believed in me, my closest circle, who didn’t view my project as a pipe dream. There are also those who told my story, as well as the clients. No project can bring people together the way wine does. Each link in the chain has been important. I never imagined things would happen so fast, and the seeds would take root.

Is your family proud of you?

Yes, and very happy for me. My family has made a lot of sacrifices, but it was worth it in the end.

Your favourite colour?

I started with reds, but today I like whites just as much.

The king of grape varieties?

Chenin! It has a lot of character and concentrates a lot of different traits.

Your favourite wine?

The Coteau des Treilles, which I just call Les Treilles.

Your favourite vintage?

Probably 1989, for the reds. It’s the one I’ve had the most opportunities to enjoy.

If your wine were a person, who would they be?

Me. A profound part of a winemaker’s personality finds its way into the wine they make.

What’s the best way to enjoy it?

In good company.

Have you already thought about chemically enhancing yourself, or your wine?

No.

If you had to put a price on your estate, what would it be?

I’m not planning to. This is a 100-year project, and I don’t know what value it will have in a century’s time!

Who is your strongest competition in Anjou?

I don’t view competition that way, nor do I consider my neighbours as opponents. What impresses me is team play. My adversary could be the beer or alcohol-free drinks industries. When I see people with a waning interest in wine, I feel like we’ve missed the boat somewhere along the line.

What has been your most innovative strategy in the vineyard and in the cellar?

My most innovative idea in the region was to break the glass ceiling. What has defined Belargus is the conviction that this region produces some of France’s finest white wines and that they shouldn’t be sold at a discount. It was a risk, but in line with what I was doing. Les Treilles has been the proof of this: a 100 euro-wine from Anjou. This was completely unheard of.

Who would be your ideal successor on the podium?

I don’t know yet. I don’t want to impose this on my children. Nevertheless, one thing is certain: I will not last forever. What will remain is the terroir. My only wish is that my successor be passionate.